Trip Wrap up

I have now been home a week from this last long (23 days) European trip and it was a wonderful experience.  I packed a lot into a short time.  I did most of my posts using my phone so I apologize for some of the typo errors lol. I also had problems with my last post from Cologne as the pictures did not post so I have now added those for you to see. 

This trip was both work and very personal.  The CIEE Ruins and Revival Professional Development Seminar was excellent and I would recommend CIEE to other faculty as a great way to expand your horizons and knowledge. I also visited their center in Amsterdam as part of my research on how CIEE could help TCCD develop more international programs.  The Seminar was fun and for me interesting as I was the only historian in the group so I brought a different perspective of the history we were presented and probably had a different critical eye. Poland in its current configuration is a new nation and working hard to create a sense of identity which pervades the history it presents and which is understandable and similar to most nations.  Poland focuses on the concept of a 1000 year history although a specific Polish nation is an every changing entity in history (when it has actually existed). The Poles also have a very different view of WWII and its ending. They emphasize their invasion by both Nazi Germany and Communist Russia and they do not see the war really ending in 1945 with "liberation" but rather see the changing from one occupier (Germany) to another (Russia) which does not end until 1989.  What I particularly noticed in all their historical sites/museums in Warsaw and Krakow in terms of WWII was the harkening back to the "Republic" that supposedly existed between WWI and WWII and a longing for this period of independence and "democracy".  Now the reality is that the fledgling Polish democracy was actually overthrown by  General Pilsudski who then ran Poland as a dictatorship for most of the decade, but Poles love him since he defeated the mean Russians in the Polish-Russo War of 1922 and Poland seized territory from the Russians.  When I tried to nicely ask about why this is rarely mentioned in any of these histories, one of our tour leaders turned pretty defensive and said that the General was really like an American President and "protected" democracy.  I found this fascinating and a great example of nationalism at play in history which I try to teach my students; this is presenting history so as to focus on nationalistic "good" versus reality which most all nations (including the US do).  Poland was not a democracy after 1922 and the war with Russia and the seizure of territory created an enemy on both Polish borders of the new fragile nation.

Warsaw is truly fascinating as this is a city completing and deliberately destroyed at the end of WWII --literally it was a massive pile of rubble. The Poles have rebuilt the city on top of the rubble and they now massively promote historical tourism.  There is still a post-WWII Russian architecture on the rebuilt city especially with the massive building of the Ministry of Culture which sites right smack in the middle of the city and is an eyesore.  The museums in Warsaw are quite good and again historical tourism plays a big role in Poland today.

Krakow is still a medieval city that was not destroyed in the war.  It is also a place where Poland is working to recreate a Jewish quarter through the creation of a Jewish Cultural Center and a Jewish Fair neither of which is led by Jews!  This is one of the many quirks in Poland (such as the Polish-Russian Dialogue Center that has no Russian connection or participants actually).  There are Jews in Poland but they are hard to identify as some no longer self-identify as Jewish or do not want to stand out.  Poland also does not much admit the anti-Semitism that existed in Poland before, during and even after WWII. Poland was the center of European Jewry and it was wiped out but survivors who returned after the war were not necessarily warmly welcomed and the late 1940s saw pogroms that drove out any surviving Jews.  Today Jews are welcomed but most are American-Polish Jews who have the means to return and connect to their roots. 

Auschwitz-Birkenau is a moving site but has also become a massive tourist attraction..which is really weird.  Poland does not want to be known just for Auschwitz (which by the way is the German name of the small town in the area but not the Polish name) but it has created a tourist center with busloads of people arriving and massive crowds moving through the site.  Our group leaders had received feedback from previous groups that the large crowds were very disconcerting for one's ability to connect with the site and as a result they brought us in late afternoon when most of the crowds had already left.  We were grateful especially as we visited the Birkenau section which is the actual part of the camp where the large numbers of Jews were gassed. The Auschwitz section was actually the work camp that housed few Jews but rather POWs and political prisoners from other nations.  Birkenau is stark and very moving when you stand on the railroad ramp where people were separate and either sent to their immediate deaths in the gas chambers or given a brief reprieve into the working camp. I must say I was very surprised at how little most of the other participants knew about  how the death camps and how they worked including a Jewish member of our group.  Many had little idea how many people besides just Jews were brought to the camps and killed or that Auschwitz-Birkenau did not become a camp focused on killing until 1942 and after.  They also had little understanding that the US did NOT liberate Auschwitz and only had connection to Dachau and its liberation at the end of the war (the British actually entered Bergen-Belsen); this is because almost all of the camps were located in eastern Poland and the USSR which were liberated by the Red Army. Auschwitz-Birkenau was liberated by the Soviets and left as it was at the end of the war. A member of our Seminar had actually been there 34 years prior when there was little signage and historical information and of course many less visitors but I asked her what she thought about then and now and she answered honestly that in some ways the way she had seen it originally had a bigger impact because it was so stark and it felt like you were stepping back into the moment as compared to the tourist site it is today to some extant.  It is still a moving site but it is now THE stop for most Americans and others who visit Poland, which begs the question is it a memorial or destination.

Berlin is a dynamic city and the new heart of Germany but the difference in the way Germany deals with its history from most other nations is evident. The Germans have focused on Coming to Grips with their history - it is not denied nor nationalized. In fact most Germans still have a great dislike of shows of nationalism -- they only really fly flags during the World Cup or the Eurocup (which was going on), and even then it is not even close to half the folks flying flags.  They are very conscious of the potential evils of extreme nationalism. Even since I was in Berlin six years ago the city has continued to add to its remembrance.  The Topography  of Terror Museum was fantastic and focuses on the SS and Gestapo headquarters in Berlin and the terror/atrocities that were carried out by Germany during this period.  Nothing is skimmed over and even the final judgements against German perpetrators and those who escaped judgement is very detailed.  This is much like the museum at Nuremberg about the post war trials which was extremely detailed and pulled no punches. Everywhere in Germany are reminders of the war and the atrocities committed -- as I stated the small bronze plaques imbedded into the sidewalks in front of buildings are quite moving and permanent mark sites of remembrance.

Amsterdam is a "happening" city filled with tourists and visitors interested in the "infamous" parts of the city (marijuana sells and red-light district).  The number of British/Australian visitors was fun and interesting and made for some good conversations.  Amsterdam is packed with visitors in the city center but areas outside of that are so beautiful and peaceful. I loved the canals and all the quirky buildings. And the Dutch Resistance Museum was a totally different way to present WWII history in an occupied country as it presented the dilemma faced by its citizens -- resist, ignore or help the invaders.  The very last part of the museum which examined Dutch citizens in their South Pacific colonies (ie Indonesia) was also fascinating as these colonies were occupied by the Japanese and many Dutch including women were placed in Japanese POW campus and that native peoples both helped the Dutch and the Japanese and then demanded independence at wars end. The Dutch presentation of the struggle for colonial independence was the only area that Dutch nationalism really bled into the historical presentation -- there seemed to be much shock that the native peoples did not welcome the return of Dutch control and used Dutch citizens as a bargaining chip in demanding independence.

Cologne was a fun last major stop and I loved the skyline and riverfront. The people were very friendly and the contrast from one of the greatest medieval cathedrals to the chocolate museum and food festival was much fun.  I also relished the chance to visit the historical city of Aachen since I was so close and am very glad I chose to make the short day trip.  I also enjoyed the trip to Nuremberg and Regensberg at the beginning of the trip - they both had great medieval histories and of course Nuremberg also is so much part of WWII.  They were low-key cities that were not packed with people and I had great opportunities to sit and talk with people.

Finally the trip had a personal element as I visited locations connected to my family. The trip to Ostrava was one of opportunity since I had to get to Warsaw. Ostrava is an industrial city but the area to its south in the mountains near the smaller town of Ostravice is beautiful. I loved being able to visit the local church that was known throughout that area and I am sure my grandfather would have visited in his lifetime.  Having the chance to play golf was icing on the cake!  And then the final day in Frankfurt was a special treat to finally meet Daniela who is my cousin (related to my father).  My family is a perfect expression of the history of this area as people's overlap, intermingle, intermarry and then become caught up in historical events.  I also took photos of the massacre at Lidice in Czechoslovakia in WWII as we believe parts of my father's mother's family lived there and was killed in the massacre. These photos were at the Topography of Terror in Berlin.  My interest in the history of these places and my family connections make the history real and allows me to talk with my students about how we remember and present our histories and how nationalism can affect these memories.  I am so glad I was able to take this trip. I also realized however that I am not growing physically younger lol and this type of travel when I move around to so many places is very tiring physically and mentally. I do want to return to Europe but I hope to be able to stay in one location for a week at a time (or more!) so as to be able to relax a little more :)....so until my next trip I will keep planning!

Heading Home

After a night in Frankfurt I am finally heading home. The last night was wonderful however as I was able to meet up with family! This is part of my father's Czech family but they had married German women and spoke German. Franz is 88 and still chops his own wood but does not speak Czech. He still has a brother Alois in Czech Republic but he does not spesk or write German! They barely speak but send xmas cards...that they cannot read. Now Franz would not meet with me as he does not have many friends and does not like,new people and such but I we walked by his house. His political views are very 1930s German and out of touch with almost all Germans today. But I had a marvelous time with his daughter Daniela or Dani and her husband Matthias. They picked me up at my hotel and Matthias recognized me ftom my ohoto on Facebook he said lol! He had not asked to be friends,but found me anyway.

We went to dinner at very German restaurant in one of the old medieval gates of the city and then went to see parts of city. We walked in a park on the highest ground in Frankfurt which gave a great view of the skyline. Understand that only Frankfurt has skyscrapers in German because it is the banking center. The 2nd largest behind only London but with Brexit soon maybe first! The park was originallyfarmland originally farmland part of it owned by Dani's mothers family. They owned much land and she still owns land all around Frankfurt that is rented out. We then went to their home and their beautiful neighborhood.  It is very old dating to 1700s before becoming part of Frankfurt. Unlike the rest of Frankfurt which was completely flattened in WWII this area not as damaged tho church was destroyed. We walked thru the beautiful area and stopped to have Apple wine and juice at locally owned little place. They then drove me back to the hotel. They are both about my age and very sweet and so enjoyed showing me their Frankfurt. Dani does not spesk English as well and was shy at first but by the end she was talking much especially about her childhood and mother.

So I had seen the area in Czech Republic where grandfather grew up and ended with meeting new family that had not really been lost but had not known about in years past!
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Long trip here and I saw much and met so many interesting people...it was a grand adventure. I did work as well in the seminar and I visited CIEE Center in Amsterdam fir possible future TCCD student travel.

I have enjoyed my privileges of flying Business Class international as well! Today I was able to pass time in the lounge operated by Japan Airlines before my flight. It is just a different world lol. I will have to keep earning miles lol.

So now I soon board the plane for home.

Cologne

Cologne is a nice city with a beautiful skyline. While I have been to many Cathedrals the one here is spectacular!  The spires tower over the city and inside it is cavernous. The relics of the 3 Maji are draw for pilgrims but there is so much history. The church was damaged during the war as it sits directly next to the main train station but the spires stood amid the rubble. I was able to visit the church first thing after checking into hotel few blocks away.

I was also moved by another much smaller historical site. Across Germany as part of coming to grips with their history are placed small bronze plaques in front of residential addresses with the names of those who were removed and killed during WWII; these are mainly Jews but some others too. They are set into the sidewalks and replace cobblestones or bricks so very permanent. They are small about 4x4. There are 2 very near my hotel that I walk by on way to and from station. A good reminder.  I do wonder what it is like for those who live there now to see each day as they had no part in what happened but it marks their residence. Could you imagine plaques right in front of homes that said "slave owner "?? ...interesting...

I also walked down to the river bank and took a short cruise on the Rhine River which was lively on a hot sunny day and provided awesome views of the skyline. So that makes 3 river cruises (Danube, Spree, Rhine and Amsterdam canals).  Then I walked to the Chocolate Museum which was great fun and had dessert at their cafe. To top it iff I enjoyed the local Wine & Gourmet Food Fair! 

Long walk back to hotel but meandered thru old town.

Next day up early for a day trip to Aachen to see Charlemagne's Cathedral.

The cathedral is GORGEOUS!! Not as imposing outside but so beautiful inside. I had hopped on an earlier train so I arrived before most tourists. Now you can self guide around inside but do not see as much and they only have 1 English language tour but 5 hours later! So I went on a German tour and they gave me an English written guide lol. But oh man we went into the choir with tombs and reliquaries and the upstairs throne room.  This allowed great photo ops and since I could only understand about 1/4 of guide I could take lots of photos!  I also toured the magnificent treasury which almost rivals the one in Vienna. Lots of Catholic reliquaries which are a little freaky but interesting which includes a piece of Charlemagne's skull. In the church the reliquaries include Charlemagne's remains as well as the cloak of Mary and Jesus loincloth held in magnificent golden decorated boxes.  The old town hall provides a nice public area. A little lunch in the beautiful square then hop train back to Cologne.

Most museums are closed on Mondays but some nice places to walk around.

I did return to Cologne and take a walk around!  I checked out a few museums and walked through old town. I also walked out on the famous railroad bridge across the Rhine that has a pedestrian path as well.  This affords some of the best views of Cologne and the bridge has its own unique character.  All along the bridge on the fence separating the pedestrian path from the train is a fence which is covered with locks. The locks are popular in many European cities as couples place these locks which are often inscribed with their names and dates, as a sign of their true love.  It is fascinating and fun to just walk and look at the thousands and thousands of locks. I have read that in a few cities on smaller, older bridges they have had to remove the locks because of the added weight to the bridge which puts them in structural danger.  This train bridge is massive so not sure if it is affected.

I ended my last evening in Cologne with dinner at a great little restaurant very near my hotel which is in a lovely residential district with a great open square that is centered around one of the original medieval gate towers into the city.  Great place to people watch and enjoy the diversity of Germany today.  The waitstaff was so nice and fun and the wiener schnitzel and house wine was really good.  One strange happening was that 2 police trucks showed up and parked and the police just got out and walked around while a local street band played big band music.  I asked if this was normal and was told that it was a day that the police had just decided to be visible and mingle with the community.  I must say they were all cuties too!  And very nice.  A busy day filled with so many different sites!

Amsterdam Finale

My last day in Amsterdam was busy but on my own schedule. I walked to the wonderful Maritime Museum as I love ships and their history. It is a fabulous museum with a wide variety of items and displays about the Dutch sea going history. They also have an old wooden sailing ship that one can go thru which I am always attracted to probably stemming from one of my earliest memories of vacation with family in California where we went aboard the Star of India which had sailed around the world. I was enchanted and still remember going aboard. The museum is not on a tram line so it was quite a hike but beautiful morning. I had hoped to stop and check out a few churches on the way but they were closed!  The Dutch have an interesting relationship with churches lol...many have limited hours to be open or have actually been repurposed as art museums etc and many charge tourists fir entrance (and usually 10 euros which is not cheap). And then because they are Calvinist there is little in the church!! Lol

From the maritime I walked thru beautiful neighborhood to the Hermitage Amsterdam which is a branch of the famous museum in St Petersburg Russia. They had a fabulous exhibit on Catherine the Great with many artifacts and paintings! This was perfect and I savored this opportunity. I then walked a little more before hopping some trams thru other areas of the city so I could give my feet a break!  Picked up last few souvenirs including 2 pieces of traditional design Dutch fabric as a quilt shop near my hotel I had seen. They are perfect size for a throw pillow cover. Got one for me and mom as something bright fir their new place and mine is a solid purple with subdued design.

I treated myself to dessert and dessert wine at hotel bar since I get a big duscount as Platinum Elite member. I had an inexpensive dinner of lasagne at little Italian place down the street that was delicious.

I was quite tired after a loong busy day and much walking. This morning the streets are full of trash after people partied last night but it is quiet overall as I walk to train station down the street to catch train to Cologne and my last sightseeing city on trip. 

Update :  train station was adventure as they did not give train numbers as all other stations do (even in Italy!) and then moved the platform without notification! Lots of folks frustrsted but we just kept asking the officials til found platform as train arrived. It was a packed train but I had my reserved seat and all was good. Lol

Amsterdam

I arrived in Amsterdam yesterday and this is where all the tourists are! I knew the Germans love their bicycles but OMG the Dutch blow them away. I realized this on train from Berlin as when we crossed into the Netherlands the racks and racks of bikes at each train station!

Amsterdam is lovely and picturesque. My hotel is very close to train station and heart of city center. I used IHG points for this one as most expensive on trip but worth it! Im platinum member so they upgraded me on everything including to top floor and free drinks at bar lol. I feel so pampered lol but it was goid timing after the dorm last nites in Berlin ha!

After a short walk around I took a canal cruise around/thru city which was lovely and relaxing. The history and architecture are splendid.

The city is packed with young people...drawn in part because of the marijuana available all over and the famous,Red Light District. I must say the legend that pot makes you hungry must be the reason this city is FULL of restaurants and places with snacks and pastries lolol.  Im enjoying the pastries at least! The city is also extremely diverse with tourists from all over but also people of the former Dutch colonies who have roots here.

I must say we all noticed in Poland there is very much homogeneity everywhere. Germany and particularly Berlin are however diverse and Amsterdam even more so.

Today I slept in because I did not set my alarm and my body let me know I needed some rest.  But I dud have a noon appointment with the folks at the CIEE Center here which was part of the reason for my trip. They have a nice facility across from the University of Amsterdam. I also checked out a variety of the living accommodations. I am reaearching how TCCD could work with CIEE fir international education including faculty custom short trips. So I did work today!

I then checked out the Dutch Resistance Museum and loved it. The Dutch presented it in terms of the decisions faced by them during WWII when they surrendered and were occupied. They look at those who just tried to live as usual, those who collaborated and the resistors. They also chronicled the fate if Dutch Jews. There were many many artifacts and personal histories. Great place and contrast to Polish and German.

I then took the tram to the Heineken Exoerience lol! Very touristy but fun...mostly young crowd but all enjoyed the beer. I then did a little shopping including some Delft pottery and ate at a great local Italian place (Im not a big fan of Dutch food which has a lot of fish lol but I did have yesterday and lunch).

Tomorrow I head to a great Maritime Museum and some churches. I also will ride trsms,around to areas havent seen. Weather should be nice unlike today which was rainy.

Finally I must note that I awoke today to the story of the tragic police shootings in Dallas. I mourn gor those families and for the nation. Interesting I was talking to an Australian family as,we waited at a tram stop and they had seen the story and were sad. But they also noted that our gun laws are tragic and help this kind of violence which they felt was very sad and could not understand American focus on guns and especially Texas....I agreed it is sad and unlikely to change much. They were surprised that I kbew the history of gun laws in Australia which were changed dramatically there by a conservative leader after a horrible mass shoiting about 25 years ago which reduced gun deaths to almost nil.  I had researched this at one point for way to use as comparison in my US Govt class...I think I will do this concept in fall

Berlin & Seminar Finale

Berlin has been great for me again. I was able to see places I had not been able to get to on my last trip. We had an extensive day exploring the Berlin Wall which is an area I researched heavily as part of my Masters degree. We visited the Wall Museum which was not here previously and which has worked to preserve sections that included the entire wall infastructure not just the concrete wall. So we walked along and inside the no man's land and viewed the memorisl to those killed. We also had rare access to the Museum's storage area,that has original artifacts including guard towers. We then also walked along the length of the Eastside Gallery that is,an area of the wall that was covered in artwork by various artists and today preserved. We also met one of those original artists and went to their home to hear their story.

From there I went on an adventure with 2 others to find the massive Soviet Army War Memorial and cemetery at Treptow Park. Wow! !!! It was awesome! The scale is grand but the place for its size is hidden within the park. It is full of symbolism...from the statue of the weeping mother to the powerful soldier clutching the child in his arms while crushing a swastika. No specific graves are marked as more than 10 million Soviet soldiers who died are unknown. They had no real system to track the men or id the dead. Soviet soldiers were given a piece of paper with their name written on it but since most were illiterate they used it for rolling cigarettes. I am glad I visited the site which is maintained by the German government.

Our last day we had an art workshop in the morning which was my least fav program of trip. This was followed by a brief concert by an America - Jewish musician residing in Berlin who performs Jewish folk music.

In my few free hours remaining I managed to get the last ticket for the Underground Dark Tour; this is a tour of the last intact underground airraid shelter in Berlin. It was great and we had a superb guide. I learned a lot and saw many artifacts including a heavily damaged enigma machine. I loved the experience!

So we ended the seminar with a closing dinner out together which was nice. I head off early in the morning to Amsterdam and a new adventure!

From Krakow to Berlin

Our last day in Krakow was so nice as we went to Jewish Community Center and final concert of Jewish Cultural Festival. Also we all used free afternoon time to see last of sites had not seen and to shop for mementos.

Then on Sunday morning we fkew to Berlin. Short flight. We are staying at the CIEE Berlin Center which is really a dorm...lol my second stay in college dorms this year (Washington DC with student trip was other). We went on walking tour of part of city and then a great dinner cruise on the Spree River which runs around city.  We also talked with historians from Center For Contemporary History about commemoration and memory in Berlin which I loved as have been studying for 12 years now.

Today we visited the excellent Topography of Terror aure which commemorates and explains the former site if the Gestapo and SS in Berlin and all of its origins and actions. The site is so informative and tasteful and a place that was not here on my previous visit. We then went to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews which I had seen previously and I had followed the entire history of the project so it was not new material but a fascinating place to see again. Tben when done a fee of us went to the new memorials nearby forvthe Roma/Sinti and,for Homosexuals who were killed by the Nazis.  I then finally found the small marker in front of what was formerly the Reich Chancellery and Garden and thus also the site if Hitler's,underground bunker. As some of you know for me and my dissertation this was important for me. The marker is hard to find as the Germans are not eager to remind folks...in fact the Soviets destroyed it and most traces of it so as not to draw gawkers. For years the site was kept secret. I had not been able to find it on previous trip as even less marked. While this is ghoulish in a way, as a modern German historian who focused on this period it was important for me to stand in front of the location.

It is funny but other group members have commented that I seem to know the city well...i did engrain much of the city in my mind on previous trip but I also am so familiar with the city lay out from the war years. ..i tend to see it in my mind from the 1940s I realized.

I led my compatriots finally to my fav place in Berlin...Fassbinder & Rausch Chocolatiers! Downstairs is,a chocolate store like no other and upstairs a chocolate cafe. Like I was the first time you are just in awe at all the fine chocolate and choc sculptures....lol and of course we had to partake!  Ahh Berlin is such a fun city!

Auschwitz

Today was a unique and memorable day. We visited Auschwitz -Birkenau. This death camp consumed the lives of more than 1 million lives most Jews but also Roma, Soviet POWs, and Poles.  It is huge and has more than 1 million visitors per year which begs the question is it a tourist site now? Prior to touring the camp we had lunch and talked with the director of the Catholic Interfaith Center for Dialogue right outside. The director works to help with the open wounds the site reveals. People bring their own visions of Auschwitz with them and dialogue is key.

Walking the site is serene and thought provoking but also creates great introspection.  It is hard to fathom what happened there. As a student of WWII I have read and studied much about what happened at Auschwitz and have wanted to visit the site simply to experience the place. I will definitely share this with my students.

To stand on the site of such anguish,  pain, and hatred touches the heart and soul. And also makes one even more dedicated to being vigilant about standing up to those  who seek to divide us against ourselves by segregating and focusing on the "other" in society and by demonizing them so as to de-humanize them.

Krakow

In beautiful city of Krakow which was not destroyed in WWII. The city has 500 churches! Poles are very Catholic and proudly so. It is in part tied to their nationalism and self-identity. This is a quaint very medieval city and especially proud that is hometown if Pope John Paul II whose image is,everywhere. Also this is where Oscar Schindlers factory was located and Steven Spielberg filmed a number of scenes here.

We took a great wslking tour of the city and its famed Jewish Quarter. We also walked around the Jewish Ghetto created during war.  Very sadly of yhe 70000 Jews prior to the war less than 300 remain here. Interestingly there is a Jewish Cultural Festival and Jewish Community Center but both are run by non-Jews! We will attend the Festival on Saturday. We have also discussed the clear Polish nationalism that prevails and is part of all their history. We have had much to talk about Jews in Poland throughout history and how the nation seeks to include them in the story of the nation.

Poland constantly discussed its history. ...people think about it and want the world to see more than WWII and the Holocaust.

We have also enjoyed Polish vodka! I like honey vodka and bought some to bring home.