A Day Which Will Live in My Memory

The first day of our NEH Landmarks Workshop we departed the East-West Center at the University of Hawaii for a grand adventure visiting key sites related to World War II and especially the attack on Pearl Harbor.  We had as our escort/tour guide National Park Service Ranger Daniel Martinez who overflows with knowledge on all of the sites that we would see this day.  I felt goosebumps and excitement as we headed toward sites I had long read and taught about.  My mind returned to the times in class I had read the stories of Medal of Honor recipients from December 7th to my students.  One in particular remained in my mind and I would return to him near the end of our trip.

We began the trip on Ford Island which is still an active military base but we had access and our expert guide.  We stopped at what had been the area of the airfields first attacked on December 7 and were able to see the damage that remains from the attack.  One can still see the pockmarks from Japanese aircraft fire particularly 20mm cannon in the concrete. 

We also stood on the exact spot where the very famous photo of the USS Shaw exploding in drydock had been shot during the attack.  You could see hospital point where the USS Nevada had been run aground to avoid sinking and blocking the channel. 

The bus then brought us to the Pacific Aviation Museum which has a great smaller collection of photographs and vintage airplanes.  The original control tower on Ford Island also stands sentinal outside the museum.   

 From the museum we headed to the newest addition to the World War II Valor in the Pacific National Monument (the new name for the what had been previously known simply as the  USS Arizona Memorial).  A beautiful and touching new memorial has been added to commemorate the loss of the USS Oklahoma and the more than 400 sailors who went down with the valiant ship when she rolled over after numerous hits by torpedoes.  The memorial includes single white posts with the names of each of those sailors etched upon it.       

Our next stop was the visitors center for the USS Arizona memorial and our boat ride out to the famous site.  The visitor's center is currently undergoing a major redo and upgrade and the film that one usually views is currently being shown in a temporary tent facility.  The film explains the history behind the memorial and helps to set the mood, however we noticed that some people were bypassing watching the film.  We would view the film later in the week so we could compare it to the previous film that had run since 1981; our Ranger guide, Daniel, had helped lead the effort to create the new film. 
We boarded the last boat to the memorial.  The memorial is run by the Park Service but the boat ride is operated by the US Navy and its personnel who serve 3 year shifts on this duty.  Our full boat headed across the water of Pearl Harbor to our somber destination.    

Upon disembarking, we entered the long white structure and immediately individuals began taking photos. The Memorial itself was crowded with people and was noisy much to the chagrin of many of us on the tour; it was hard to focus on the site itself, but I walked along among the people both young and old and worked to let my mind wander back to that day.  All those young men, over 900, lay silently entombed forever in their ship; in this place they are immortal at least in our memories.  While some may view the USS Arizona as a reminder that the nation should always be prepared to defend itself, and others may view it as a reminder that we should strive for peace, I am always reminded that in war the ultimate cost is paid by the thousands of young men and women like these who sleep forever in the waters of Pearl Harbor.   This ship is both a memorial and a tomb and elicits emotions from most who visit.     The wall containing the etched names of all those lost on the ship that Sunday morning evokes a since of solemnity and sadness.    In addition, those crewman who survived that fateful day may request to be returned to their ship upon their deaths.  Their names are listed as well and on this day there were 2 read roses here also.  Ranger Daniel explained that this was a tradition started by a Japanese veteran of the war who had created a bond of friendship with a Pearl Harbor survivor and began an individual effort at reconciliation that has been embraced by some veterans.  The roses had become a sign of this reconciliation and are still delivered to the site on a regularly basis per the Japanese veteran's request before his death.  As Daniel began to explain this story to our group, many other people in this area of the memorial became silent and also listened in to the narrative.  We were all moved and Daniel himself, who had worked with these veterans, became choked up as he finished his story.  It was a poignant and moving moment and as I do at these memorials with lists of names, I quietly say a few of the names aloud; it is my small way of helping keep their memory alive.

I walked along the memorial and gazed into the areas beneath where the hulk of the ruined ship lies on the bottom.  Nearby one can see the mighty battleship USS Missouri that I would visit in a few days.     I also noticed over on the nearby shore of Ford Island a small memorial!  My interest was peaked and when I asked Professor Geoffrey White who was also leading our group, I was informed that his was one of the original memorials to the Arizona!  And yes I could probably access the memorial when I visited the USS Missouri -- I now had a new adventure in my sites.  

The Arizona site also contains the USS Bowfin submarine and the tribute to the US silent service.  I found this interesting as the site is very similar in what it contains to the Groton, CT site I had just visited a few weeks past.  Each of the submarines that had been lost at sea is remembered here and her crew names are listed. 

We boarded the bus and headed to our last stop at the park and a site that is not accessed by the general public as it is located on the opposite side of the island.  This is the tribute to the USS Utah, a training ship, that had been lost on December 7 with the lives of 58 men.  The navy had attempted to salvage the aging battleship but the task had proved diffcult and so it was decided that is should also remain at the bottom of Pearl Harbor.  Parts of the ship remain visible above water and a small but fitting walkway out toward the hulk contain a memorial plaque with an eloquent quote from the Senator from Utah who had led in the dediction of the memorial.  This site particularly moved me as I have for years related the sad but heroic story of Peter Tomich, an immigrant, who served in the navy and gave his life on December 7 to save as many of the men on the ship as possible by working to keep the power on.  For his extreme gallantry, he received the Medal of Honor posthumously, however, there was no family to receive the award and so the state of Utah became's its keepers until just a few years ago when Tomich's distant relatives were located in his home country.  

Upon departing the Valor in the Pacific Park (and the museum store where I did have to purchase some key items LOL), we headed into downtown Honolulu and the state capitol grounds and royal palace.  We were allowed a few minutes off of the bus to take photos of the famous statue of King Kamemeha.   However, I knew that the capitol grounds contained the Hawaiian Korean and Vietnam memorials and had seen them as we drove up so myself and one of my workshop mates headed out in search of it.  The memorial commemorates those Hawaiians who gave their life in either conflict and it is an elegant and beautiful memorial.  The site appears to be a simple serpentine wall with a step design along the wall, however, as you approach you see that each of the protruding stones has the name of a fallen Hawaiian etched upon it.   Many tropical flowers adorned the names. 

 

We made one more stop at the beautiful Pali Lookout that was the site of the famous battle that finally united the Hawaiian Islands under a single ruler.  The view of the north side of the island was spectacular!  And did see a gorgoues golf course below. 

This was a beautiful reminder that we were in Hawaii!!  We concluded this spectacular day with a welcoming dinner at the Japanese consulate.  This lovely home has been the site for the consulate for over 100 years and the current consolute and his wife are charming.  When she learned I was from Texas her face lit up in a huge smile because they had previously served at the consulate in Houston and had loved their time in Texas. I also learned that they would also be going over to the neighboring island of Kauai at the end of the week for some golf -- just as I  plan to do :)

Our workshop had begun with a sensory, on-site experience that brought to life all of the history and stories that so many of us knew by heart.  We teemed with thoughts and images and the next day we would hear the voices that enlivened those stories as well as brought us new narratives to incorporate.

Aloha from Hawaii!

Yes I'm now in Hawaii and WORKING!  I am part of the NEH Landmarks Workshop for College Professors.  This workshop was just made for me and my project as it is entitled:  History and Commemoration:  Legacies of the Pacific War.  I had applied for this while I was still waiting to hear about the TDFellowship and the two dovetail perfectly.  The workshop is hosted by the East-West Center of the University of Hawaii (where I an staying), the National Park Service and the Pacific Historic Parks (formerly the Arizona Memorial Assocation).  This Landmarks Workshop is a little different as it also selects professors from outside of the United States to attend.  We have a great range of folks from the Netherlands, Japan, Guam, the Philippines, China, etc as well as US professors. 

The workshop is going to be fabulous and we will have access to the best WWII historical sites on Oahu!  On our first day we take a bus tour of Ford Island with stops at the USS Utah Memorial, Pacific Aviation Museum, USS Oklahoma Memorial, USS Missouri Memorial, USS Arizona memorial wiaht a special boat tour of Pearl Harbor with dinner at the Japanese Consulate!  Later in the week we will also visit Fort Debussy, Schofield Barracks and meet both military and civilian veterans/survivors of the war.  The voices we will hear will represent a wide-range of peoples who participated -- not just Americans and Japanese.  My suitemates are all foreign scholars and bring unique views to the workshop.

 After arriving in later afternoon today I met one of my suitemates who is from the Netherlands and we headed out for a walk to the beach. We ended up after along walk around Diamond Head having a Mai Tai and snack on Waikiki Beach -- it was beautiful!

I have a week here on Oahu with the workshop.  Then I head for just a few days to beautiful Kauai where I will do some work on memorials and then golf and relax a little.  I of course will be playing some golf.  So for now Aloha and I look forward to sharing this unique experience.

The Greenbriar

 [I'm actually home now and have been for a few days but finally catching up on my postings!]   My treat was a one night stay at the lovely, old, historical Greenbriar Resort in White Sulpher Springs, West Virginia.  The mineral springs have brought people here for over 200 years and the resort has welcomed them.  Presidents and foreign dignataries have visited here and there is a Presidential Cottage.  The resort is home to a venerable golf course known as Old White and in just a few weeks will host its first ever PGA tour stop.  It has hosted a Ryder Cup and for years the club pro was Sam Snead until he was succeeded by Tom Watson.  Watson's wedge that he used to chip in to win the US Open is on display in the golf shop.   

  Now unfortunately I awoke that morning to pouring rain and it would rain hard and steady almost all day.  These pictures are from about 7pm when it finally let up soooo I did not get to golf, much to my dismay.  The course was closed most of the day and when a few folks had tried to get out they were soaked on several occasions.  I would not pay big bucks to play in such miserable conditions on such a great course and with a caddie!  So I will RETURN someday to play these courses (they have 3).

I did stay at the resort anyway and enjoyed the spa and just walking around and viewing the famous Cold War bunker.  The bunker (you are not allowed to take any photos at it or near its entrance) was created to house the US Government in case of nuclear attack.  This was the evacuation point and the government would have continued during nuclear war -- well at least they would have had the staff from the resort LOL.  There is a Discovery Channel video about the bunker and its history, which by the way I could watch in my room.  My room was elegant and provided for my every need but in a quaint old-fashioned manner with turn down service and mints on my pillows.  There was actually a walk-in closet!  Of course I bought a few mementos as well. 

The resort is really fabulous and posh and old fashioned with a strict dress code in the evenings.  I actually ended up eating at a more casual restaurant and for dinner had a good old fashioned rural southern favorite -- fried chicken and waffles with West Virginia maple syrup! 

There are many gorgeous patios and green spaces throughout the resort and the grounds are fabulous.  Again if not raining so much of the day I could have enjoyed them more.

Well after breakfast in my room, I headed towards home. I would have a beautiful drive across the mountains on a back road into Virginia and then onto the interstate.  Massive storms in eastern Tennessee along I40 forced me to head farther south to catch I20 toward home.  I had a great moment when I passed my friend Sonya on I20 who was driving to see her family in Alabama; we met at Exit 40 for a brief hug and chat before heading again in opposite directions! 

What a trip!  I had traveled just under 5000 miles and visited 15 states!  I was tired and needed some  time at home in my own chair and bed before I will be leaving again for more adventures, but you will just have to stay tuned to learn where I go next.

A Day in Virginia and Personal Tour at the end

This day would be spent traversing Virginia and some very interesting sites.  The morning began in the historic city of Richmond and the mammoth Hollywood City Cemetery.  Two presidents are buried here -- James Monroe and John Tyler.  Their monuments are both quite modest really and no special signs indicate their presence if you do not know they are present.   The one to the left is for our fifth president James Monroe and the obelisk marks the final resting plalce for John Tyler.  I contrast these with Abraham Lincoln that I blogged about back in May.   

This large cemetery also is the final resting place of Jefferson Davis, who served as the president of thh defunct Confederacy.  His marker is more ornate and the inscription placed there by his wife is interesting in that it seems to justify his actions against his country - an attempt to make him a heroic figure who was really right while all others including Lincoln were wrong but he just happened to be on the losing side.  Again when visiting Southern Civil War sites, you often would have no clue which side one or lost the conflict and this is just not typical of other sites from the sides that have lost in conflicts.

 The cemetery has a very large section containing Confederate war dead and a large stone pyramid marks this section.  The pyrmaid is massive and unmistakeable; again you will not find US flags here but Confederate national flags and some of the famous "Stars and Bars" which is actually a military battle flag not the flag of the Confederate government. 

This section honors those who died at Gettysburg.

And finally a moving tribute to the cadets of John Marshall Academy who gave their lives in service in World War II.  And the only US flags in this entire section of the cemetery.

 From the cemetery I drove down Monument Road in Richmond which was designed as a grand entryway into the city from the West and as the name implies contains large monuments honoring key Virginians.  It starts on one end with a spectacular equestrian statue of JEB Stuart.  The next cross street provides a view of the stunning commemoratoin of Robert E. Lee.

The next cross street (really roundabouts) contains a memorial to Jefferson Davis and the Confederacy.   Finally at the next intersection is a tribute to Stonewall Jackson.  Interestingly, the statues of Stuart and Jackson, who both died in the war, face north, while Lee faces South. I next headed across town to the modern Virginia State War Memorial that honors those from the state who served in the wars of the 20th century.  This contemporary site is undergoing major renovations but still is impressive.  The hall contains a moving tribute to the wives, mothers, sisters and daughters of those who have been lost entitled "Memory." The glass walls contain the etched names of Virginians who died in World War II, Korea and Vietnam with spillover onto the marble walls opposite; here also are included those lost in the Persian Gulf War.  Again, we tend to think the casualties from the Persian Gulf were so small but I have already seen several that contain several names each.   

From Richmond I now headed to a place I had always wanted to visit -- Monticello, the home of President Thomas Jefferson.  Jefferson was such an enigmatic character and thinker and his life and words helped shape our early nation.  His home is very unique like the man and it sits on a majestic piece of property on top of a large hill (mountain).   No pictures are allowed inside the home so nothing from there but I have provided a feel for the location.  The gardens and flowers abound here and represent some of what Jefferson himself grew or tried to grow.

Watch the brief video below by clicking on the play button.

I also walked down past the Jefferson burial site and the family cemetery.  Again the burial site is modest although the obelisk was not the original marker that marked the burial site of the third president.  This plaque explains the history of the cemetery. 

I still had three more stops this day before I was done so off I went now toward Lynchburg.  Here among the downtown area (I had to drive by twice to actually find it), sits an unsual memorial.  The city of Lynchburg has created a memorial up and down a large hill within the city -- it is in effect "stacked".  As you stand at the bottom there is a memorial to WWI and then you begin a long climb up stairs to the top.  Along the climb, are plateaus with tributes to different conflicts. 

Looking up toward my climb to the top.

Next was the tribute to WWII.

Next was Korea.

Then Vietnam.

And finally at the top of course is the tribute to the veterans of the Confederacy.

Whew!  That was a climb but I loved the unusual layout of this downtown memorial and the view both up and down. 

I now jumped back into my car and headed for a site I really wanted to see - the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford, Virginia.  You may ask why little Bedford?  Well tiny Beford with a population in 1941 of around 3200 lost 21 of its young men on the first day of the D-Day invasion and 19 within the first 15 minutes, all out of a total of 35 who were serving.  The whole site honors the courage, honor and sacrifice of all those who served.    Unfortunately, I arrived 15 minutes after the site had officially closed and was told no admission ticket would be sold.  I had seen an older gentlemen manning the entry gate however and so I decided to go explain my work and ask if I could just have a few minutes to drive up and take a few pictures for my research.  He was a real sweetie and sent me on up, telling me that the manager was on site and he could be in trouble but thought my project was admirable.  Sure enough as I drove up to the key point of the memorial and jumped out to take some pictures, a gentlemen drove up in a pickup truck.  This was was the Facilities Site Manager, Martin Leamy an Army veteran of the Persian Gulf and Bosnia himself, who clearly was on his way home on this late Sunday afternoon.  When I explained my project and research, his face lit up and he began to tell me all the details of the site!  He paused for a moment and told me that he would go get a golf cart and give me the full tour and that we did!       

I was now afforded my own personal tour of this magnificent site and he even turned on the water effects so I could photograph the memorial in all its splendor. He explained all the meaning and symbolism of each aspect of the site and his personal passion for this memorial brightened the tour. I was so impressed and just kept snapping pictures while enjoying all of the information.  

On one side of the magnificent arch, the memorial replicates the landing on the beaches and the Ranger climb of Pont du Hoc.  A landing craft has just unloaded soldiers who now attempt to make it ashore; one is helping a wounded comrade and another has fallen.  The fallen soldier's Bible is visible near his helmet; for a number of those soldiers who were killed as they came ashore, the tides took their remains out to sea and only their personally inscribed Bible remained to identify them; such was the case for one of the local "Bedford Boys". 

The site also contains a circle around the beach area with plaques with the names of all those both from the US and other nations, who lost their lives on D-Day.  This is the only site in the world that pays tribute to all of those who fell on this historic day. 

This site is just loaded with information and commemorations and please visit their website at http://www.dday.org/

The separate units that particapated in the landings have plaques and a small scout airplane is also displayed.  There are numerous statutes including of all of the heads of state form WWII as well as all the major military leaders.  The memorial sits on the highest spot of land in Bedford and provides a commanding site.  

Please click on theshort film section below to view part of my tour and hear Mr. Leamy as well as the great water features that simulate the ocean as well as have the effect of small arms fire hitting the water around the soldiers fighting to come ashore.

I must say this was also quite a wonderful site when I could look back on my recent trip to Normandy where I was able to visit the actual site of these landings and see the unit memorials located there and walk the beach.

I felt terrible that I needed to get back on the road now as I could have stayed and visited and learned more about this great national monument, but I still needed to visit Lexington before driving over to Lewisburg, West Virginia and I was already not going to arrive until 9:00pm or later.  So I waved goodbye and headed off across the Blue Ridge Parkway to Lexington -- again this was a gorgeous drive although a little difficult at times with sun often directly in my eyes and on a small, winding mountain road.  I still managed to snap some photos though!

My last stop of the day was Lexington, Virginia.  I stopped by the Stonewall Jackson burial site and family cemetery.  Jackson's burial site is marked by an elegant statue facing South and surrounded by the graves of about 100 Confederate soldiers.

I then drove into town and the Washington and Lee Campus, home of the Robert E Lee Memorial Chapel which was undergoing some construction and did not have any lights inside so tough for pictures.  Nearby is the Virginia Military Institute and I managed to find my target in this very confusing campus!  Roads appear to be alleys sometimes but a very nice older gentlemen out for a walk on this lovely evening pointed to the area around the parade grounds that houses the memorial to the VMI cadets who lost their lives in the Civil War.  Until just a few year's past, the area behind the statue actually had headstones; these were recently remved and just the flat markers remain.

This had been a very long and very productive day!  I was on the road for about 12 hours after the previous day of about 14 hours so I pulled into Lewisburg, West Virginia tired but pleased with my work and ready for a break.  This had really been the last "working" day of my trip.  I had scheduled myself a little treat for the next day.